Kostarisk joint research laboratory has received government funding managed by the French National Research Agency under the France 2030 Investment Plan (ref. ANR-16-IDEX-0002).
Development of phase-resolved operational wave forecasting for sites with highly irregular bathymetryPhD – Panu Pietikainen
Dates: 2024 – ...
Host: RPT.
Direction: V. Roeber, M. Delpey.
Summary – This research project is exploring the effects of steep bathymetric gradients on local wave field and the subsequent impacts on the shoreline.
The first case study focuses on the Anglet/Bayonne shoreline and on the Adour river tidal channel. The effect of an offshore sediment depot on wave transformation will is investigated with a focus on the subsequent propagation of infragravity waves into the Adour river channel. It is was shown by previous research (Bellafont, 2019) that IG waves focused by the depot could travel far inland via the river channel and be a component of seiche and flooding in Bayonne.
The second case study addresses the local effects induced by the canyon of Capbreton on the nearshore wave field and the related transformation up to Capbreton and Hossegor beaches.
The research will rely on a new version of the numerical model BOSZ developed at UPPA, which should allow for the representation of the effects of the bathymetric heterogeneities on both study sites, on large domains from the offshore up to the coast.
Finally, the research will participate to the development of a forecasting model to predict the level of risk posed on study sites municipalities. This will aid the risk management of local councils in the area.
