Kostarisk joint research laboratory has received government funding managed by the French National Research Agency under the France 2030 Investment Plan (ref. ANR-16-IDEX-0002).
Phase-resolved modelling of wave dynamics on sandy-rocky bottoms - Application to the risk of flooding on the Basque coastPhD – Emile Guélard
Dates: 2023 – 2026.
Host: SIAME.
Direction: D. Sous, P. Marsaleix.
Summary – In the context of climate change and increasing pressures on coastal environments, this PhD project aims to improve the understanding of wave transformation and coastal risks in complex nearshore settings. Focusing on rocky and mixed sand-rock seabeds, the work involves the development of a high-resolution 3D wave model based on the SYMPHONIE code, enhanced with a "canopy" approach (Bulk Canopy Drag) to represent wave–seabed interactions in highly rough terrains. The modelling will be based on wave transformation measurements on idealized rough bottoms from wave flume experiments. These experiments will simulate the propagation of irregular waves over rough beds, including both block-like idealized roughness and 3D topographies with various bottom statistic metrics. The objective is to explore the influence of different types of bottom roughness on wave energy dissipation and coastal runup, contributing to more accurate predictive tools for coastal adaptation.
This research is part of the European Regions4Climate project and is carried out in collaboration with several research institutions such as LEGOS and SHOM.
